NASCAR Talladega Inside Line Setup Tutorial Part 1 here...
NASCAR Talladega Inside Line Setup Tutorial Part 3 here...
If you followed along in part 1, you may notice that your car now "hits" the track once or twice in the corner, slightly bottoming out. From here on out it's a battle to get that rear as low to the ground possible without it "dragging" so much that you lose speed or ruin the handling of your car. With that in mind:
Reduce That Front Sway Bar
When your car turns into a corner, the physics acting on the car want to make it roll over. This raises the left side of the car and lowers the right. The Sway bar is designed to counteract these forces in the car. In the default setup, your nose is to the ground, so you need a big front sway bar to keep the right front from "rolling over" and digging into the track. The downside is this tightens up your car and slows it in the corners.
But remember! You raised the front ride height on your car, so the nose isn't in as much danger of scraping on the right front. That means you can get away with less front sway bar. I suggest reducing it from 3000 lbs to 1000 lbs to start.
Add Some Rear Sway Bar
For the same reason you can get away with less front sway bar, you need a bit to help reduce this body roll in your now-lower rear. I suggest going to somewhere between 200-400 lbs to start. You don't want too much, otherwise your car will get crazy-loose in the corners.
Note: For the record, I personally run 800 lbs front sway bar, 400 lbs rear sway bar.
Soften Those Springs
This is probably the biggest change left, and that's because you start getting into the danger zone for dragging that rear end (particularly the right rear) on the track. But there's too much speed to be gained to leave it be. So let's take it nice and easy:
Start off by reducing your springs to 350 lbs all around. This is actually the lowest you can go in the front, but you can go lower in the rear (down to 200.) We will deal with that soon. But first:
Deal With the "Michigan setup for Talladega" Issue
Before the patch, there were definite setup glitches. If you altered your wedge, trackbar, or toe adjustments in NASCAR The Game: Inside Line, they would automatically revert or change after each race. Every time you went back in to make a change to your setup, it'd be different. These are all important tools for adjusting your car, so people found a workaround.
If you've talked with people online, they would tell you to load up the Michigan Qualifying Setup, and then change the car to suit Daytona/Talladega racing. Here's why:
First, the default Talladega setup has the trackbar set at 8.0. Michigan has it saved at 4.7. So if you start with this setup, you get a lower trackbar, which makes your car more stable through the turns after you've applied all these changes. Now that the game is patched, you can just lower the trackbar on your own to 4.7 and it will stay.
Second, the default Talladega setup has a -1/4 toe in the front and for both rear tires. The "toe" of the car is the angle the tires are set when looking down on the car. For a good example of what this means, look down at your own feet. You can turn your toes inward towards each other (negative toe) or outwards to face away from each other (positive toe.) There's a slight difference between the Talladega default and the Michigan setup in the right rear. For 'dega, the Toe is turned in -1/4, for Michigan, it's turned out 1/16. The Michigan RR Toe is faster. If the game is patched, set your RR toe to 1/16. Leave the rest at -1/4.
These two changes are things you can't adjust if your game is unpatched, but now that the update has been released, you can do them yourself without it screwing up.
Michigan also has better shock settings (bump and rebound) than the default Talladega/Daytona settings, which will give you more speed initially, until we get around to messing with them, or if you choose not to touch them.
There are also superficial changes you may or may not like if you use the Michigan setup, that won't glitch out if you adjust them manually even with an unpatched game. The Michigan steering lock is 14 degrees, Talladega is 13. You can find whichever range you like better. More steering lock will let you turn the car tighter, but make it twitcher. Less steering lock is more stable, but once you have your wheel/joystick cranked all the way, that's it.
The default Talladega setup has brake bias set at 65, Michigan is at 56. You can change this without it glitching out even in a version of NTG:IL that hasn't been updated, but it doesn't really matter at plate tracks, since you don't brake unless making a green flag pit stop. A higher number will make you slow down quicker.
Continued in the NTG:IL Talladega Setup Tutorial Part 3...
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